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Volkswagen

GTi 8V

1986 GTi 8V gonzo@cvberwar.com
Classed in EP. Replaced the air box (under the Jetronic fuel distributor) with a modified box from at 16v. Plugged off the hot air ducting and cut a channel underneath allowing cold air from the front of the car in.

Running a Dick Shine IT legal head with a matched intake and Neuspeed 268 degree cam shaft with a Autotech adjustable cam pulley this gave the car more low and mid range power.

Exhaust consisting of a Supersprint stainless header to techtonics 2.25" exhaust. which provided another substantial power gain, plus the car has a sound that can't be beat. The exhaust with the airbox mods makes it a little loud, but turns everyone's heads.

Other mods included updated knock sensing ignition allowing more radical base timing.

Suspension for the car isn't up to par with EP, however the car is still a daily driver so oh well. I've got Boge Pro Gas at all four corners with cut springs from a 90 up 2.0l GTi. Also fitted a 22mm rear sway bar from H&H. With this setup however the car handles better than a Scirrocco I drove that had a full Billstein "race ready" setup. No changes were made in camber or caster for the car since it spends most of it's life on the street.

For auto-x event's I either run 195-50-15 Pirelli P-Zero Asimetricos or 195-55-14 BFG R-1's on stock GTi "spoke" wheels.


1998 GTi VR6

1998 GTI VR6 pmcgarvey@fcg.com This car is running in Street Touring.

I have F/R Autotech sway bars, F/R upper tie bars, Neuspeed sport springs, and Koni adjustable dampers. I run 16" TSW wheels, started the season on Pirelli P7000 summers (215/40) and finished on Yokohama A520 (215/40). The p7ks had about 10 events and the yokes 2 events. the P7000's stick well once warmed up, performed good while autoxing in the rain, poor during sleet (don't ask). The A520s were also good in the rain and the dry. Both have fairly low tread wear ratings; P7000's-160, A520-180

I've had good success in my first year in ST in the Philly region. I've finished fourth, right behind 2 Integra GSRs and a Subaru Impreza. All are good drivers and have more experience than myself. Our cars have the midrange torque but don't know how to dance through the turns as well as an Integra or an awd vehicle.

My typical setup goes:
F/R pressures: 41/40, wet: 38/37
Konis: 1 1/2 turns on front, 1/2-1 turn on back (depending on understeer conditions)
the sway bars keep the car very flat, I lift a wheel most times, but don't have quite the
body roll of a stock GTI.

Thinking of going to R tires for road racing, the occasional CSP jaunt, anyone w/ a similar
car want to give me any pointers?


1995 GTI VR6

1995 GTI VR6 AMBVR5@siscom.net
My car is pretty bone stock. And yeah, I'm a total novice so take all this with a grain of salt. Keep in mind also I'm in G-STOCK. I started out with BFG R-1s 195-50 15s, Now I wish I would have gone with the 205-50 15s, I could have gotten more tire under the well. Maybe next year.

The R1s are superb! Never roll over so there is no use marking them. You just have to get the feel. I run 40 in the rear and 36 in the front. Best pressure I could find.

I also have a Nuespeed 25mm front sway bar. Inside rear tire still has lift but not as much with the sway bar. Money well spent I think. You need to be a bit more smooth in the corners however.

Other than that, that's my story. Let me know if you have any additional tips. Thanks! Allen


Jetta GLX VR6

1997 Jetta GLX VR6
I have a modified stock airbox with a K&N drop in filter, Garrett chip, Bosch +4 plugs (#4419), Magnecor KV85 wires. I have Koni adj. shocks at all 4 corners/Eibach prokit springs and Neuspeed rear 28mm bar. I still have heavy understeer on slow corners but car feels balanced most of the time. Transitions and turn-in is not as fast as I would like because the front rolls a bit so I have to wait a second for the chassie to settle (not nearly as bad as a stock car) on slow s turns or hairpins. Traction is a problem sometimes exiting the corners because of torque but the car drifts nicely on corner exits most of the time. I use toyo proxes 205/50 r15. My car is a daily driver and is confortable with this setup.


Rabbit

1978 Rabbit MrCBdude@AOL.com
Car classed in EP. Car was fitted with a weld in roll cage for rigidity. Interior was removed with the exception of lightweight seats and an aluminum dash. I guess you can figure we're talking EP here.

Other mods include a quick ratio steering rack, cam, and hollow front swaybar, all from Autotech. The rack is great, but forget having a small steering wheel when you're running slicks!

The motor is an 8V 10:1 with a ported intake and a Tri-Y header running into a single chamber Flowmaster. (Don't do this, the car is too loud. I was in the 100+ decibel range at redline, so I added some SuperTrapp baffles, but it's still loud) The engine is otherwise stock.

Suspension consists of shortened front struts from Carrera and 300lb. front springs. I highly recommend the shortened struts for extra suspension travel. Otherwise, it's too easy to hit the bump stops which results in plowing. Also, for increased caster, the front A arm bushing have been replaced with special delrin units. Finally, the car has upper and lower front stressbars. I haven't gone to camber plates or a coil over setup. Rear suspension is Bilstein shocks and a stock GTI swaybar.

Transmission is a close ratio 5 speed with a Quaife limited slip differential. Wheelspin has always been a big problem with this car, so the differential is a relief. If you can just lose your sanity long enough to spend the money, you'll find that these differentials really work.

Currently, the car runs on road race slicks. Besides my driving, this is the worst part of the setup. My friends have good luck with the BFG R-1's. I really enjoy the car. It's much lighter than my '86 GTI. Good luck with your projects, and happy motoring!

   
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