MX6 4 cyl (2.0)
Andy Hollis ( ahollis@origin.ea.com )
This car is currently running in H-Stock
These cars are great in stock form, so there's not a whole lot to do.
The usual basics apply:

1) Tires. Wheels are 14x6, so you can fit a number of sizes. I ran 205/55-14 BFG R1's and
they worked great. I never tried it, but using the 225/50-14 fronts are a definite
improvement (not available when I was running this car). 31-33 lbs front (cold), 25-27 rear.
More if you are somewhat "aggressive" in style.

2) Shocks. Tokico Illumina 5-way adjustable. Typically set to 2 in front and 5 in back for
concrete and sweeper-type course (Nats). 3 and 5 for concrete with lots of transients
(ProSolo). 2/4 or 2/3 for asphalt, depending on grip and bumpiness of surface.

3) Alignment. Align for max negative camber (.5-.75) and max caster. Make sure to hold
strut in most favorable position while tightening strut bolts. Use significantly more torque
than specified for these bolts to make the alignment hold. Set front toe at 1/4 out and
rear at zero.

4) Wheels. I used lightweight Enkei wheels. Only 11 lbs (stock alloy is 17).

5) Exhaust. Choke point is prior to the cat, so not much help here other than weight. I
used stock, but you can lose a few pounds by a cat-back system or just removing the muffler
(loud).

6) Engine. Set timing at the factory allowed tolerance of +2 degrees over stock setting.
Use NGK BKR5E-11 plugs gapped stock. Mazda NGK wires (make sure these are fresh, same with
rest of ignition parts). Use synthetic fluids (10w30 Mobil I in the heat, 5w30 in cooler, 0W
for max performance at Nats). Redline MTL in the tranny and Redline PS fluid.

7) Brakes. Stock Mazda, but keep fresh. Castrol LMA Dot 4 fluid, bled often, changed
annually.

This car is very easy to drive, responds well to adjustments and has no evil traits. I
believe it will still be quite competitive in E-stock.