Mazda

Miata R
Rx-7
MX-6

Miata R

1996 Miata R
Racing Beat 15/16" front bar with arms lengthened 1.5". Urethane bar Classed in B-Stock
bushings, heim jointend links.

Koni shocks (yellow single adj). Usually set in the middle of the range.

Max Camber in front, about 0.5 to 1.0 degrees more in the rear.
1/8" toe in rear, 1/8" toe out front.

Our front bar is stiffer than most, but the push is manageable. Softening the shocks helped predictability noticeably (used to run full stiff)

Using VERY wide BFG 225/50/14 tires, which work great on 6" rims. It improved all around handling

We now have a custom 2.25" exhaust form the cat back ending in a 5" Supertrapp muffler. Less weight than stock - muffler weighs 7-8 lbs, and more low end torque, and great top end power. The price paid is much more noise - great at the track - bothersome everywhere else, hey, it's a race car!

1999 Miata
1999 Miata jwill312@aol.com
Car class BS
Alignment - negative 1.25 degrees camber in the front, negative 1.5 degrees in rear, zero toe, and caster maximizes at approximately six. This was by far the best bang for the buck for autocrossing.
4 Kumbo tires at 34 pounds front and rear ( I would love to hear from one of the national drivers on better PSI)
K&N air filter - sounds good - not much help
Voodoo shift knob- eliminates that missed 2nd to third shift
Ordered Race Beat front Sway bar

1990 Miata
1990 Miata mijokap@aol.com
Car class CSP
The three areas that contributed to the increased performance on my '90 1600 Miata were the chassis stiffening, suspension, and breathing. I have added braces to the lower 'A' arms, front and rear, and a roll bar (for track
schools). Although I am not sure of its value, I added a tower strut brace to the front. I made all except the roll bar.
I swapped out the stock components for Racing Beat springs and sway bars front and rear.The shocks are Koni adjustables.
The third was to get the car to breathe better. I put a K&N air filter down in the intake and in front of the radiator. I moved the mass air flow sensor forward and toward the center and ducted to the K&N.
A Racing Beat 'Y' header, straight through silencer and exhaust pipe replaced the stock equipment. The car has more torque in the lower RPM's and pulls longer. It turns in quickly; when requested. There's no waiting. With as much weight out as possible and the shocks set full hard in the rear and half in front and 33 lb. in the Kuhmo's, together we won CSP in Northern Nevada. We beat an M3 and RX-7. Of course the driver still needs some work but...This winter the car will get a Torsen limited slip rear end and a new radiator.

Rx-7

1995 Rx-7 mclement@scopus.com
Car Classed in SSR. Remove stock (48mm diameter) exhaust pipe from the catalytic converter on back. Replace with aluminized steel pipe (60mm diameter) with no muffler. Result: more midrange torque, more top end power, 30 lbs. lighter, slightly louder, still street legal and solo2 SSR legal.

alignment settings:
front:
camber 0, caster +6.1, toe in 0

rear:
camber -2.0, toe in 0

1994 RX-7
1994 RX-7 tkenna2@aol.com
This RX-7 is running in Super Stock using GAB Super R's struts, all around, helped out alot. The Kumho's tires work well. I can't spin the car now with the shocks holding me up. A little bit of understeer that I can work out, but the shocks are good for at least 5/10ths of a second. Race tires of course are a huge jump and an alignment with good camber, toe in and toe out is a necessity.

Brake pads are Hawk HP's, work well, good feel, dusty though. Changed brake
fluid to Dot 4 to run longer and its already brown, time for a change. Lastly, air pressures are essential to learn, although I am still learning what to have in them. Range from 32 R to 39 F, depends on heat, etc. K & N filter, cat back straight pipe, Magnecor ignition wires, Castrol 20/50 Syntec, Red Line MTL.

1993 RX-7 hutch@qnis.net
This RX-7 runs in ASP class. Pettit Cold Air Induction, lots of vroom and whoosh noises, increase in power. Pettit Power Pully, reduced load on motor. Alternator, A/C, smog pump all turn much slower. Pettit Down Pipe, made it louder and faster. XS Engineering ECU Upgrade, added more fuel to compensate for extra flow from down pipe 3" Pipe from cat back, no muffler. Louder & faster.

Eibach Springs, about 1" lower and stiffer. Eibach Sway Bars, seemed to make the car tail happy. Will try the struts and tire pressure a notch lower. Tokico Adjustable Struts set to 5 on front and 3 in back.

Toyo F1SR 245/45/16 Tires on stock wheels. 28 front, 26 rear Car runs high 12's at 107+mph

The car, and my driving, need a lot of work to be competitive. My last autocross I got beat by a 1997 911TT by .5 seconds, in pouring rain. I thought I would get stomped even worse. But considering the conditions, and the fact that he was on rain tires in a prepared car, I did okay. This car requires a lot of TLC and a delicate touch when driving.

1982 Rx-7 TCHB53A@Prodigy.com
Justin Reaume tells us about his good looking Rx-7. I Painted the rusted wipers and "Chrome" molding around the windows. I added a C.D. player and an entire paint job from Maaco.

There is a wide red stripe down the middle I added to give it that racing look. Pinstriping helped the car look longer and gave it a different feel. I replaced the cracked windshield for a large sum and added a dashboard cover to cover those big cracks. The side molding was faded so my dad and I did our own paint job there also.

There is no rust and it looks brand new.

I bought the car from a farmer for $1,200 and I could easily sell it now for $3000.

The results are a lot of turned heads from other sports car drivers and women too. Not many have seen an RX7 in this shape!!

1981 Rx-7 Darrin Towers
1981 RX7 GSL In CSP
I run BFG R1(215-50-13) on 13x7 AllyCat Max Wheels from RWS. I run Racing Beat Springs front and rear, with Carrara shocks in front and Tokico shocks in back. I use a Ground Control 1-1/8" sway bar in front and removed the rear sway bar. The rear bar is not needed after stiffing up the springs. If you leave it on the car just picks up the inside rear wheel and smokes the tire on the exit of the corner. Ground Control Camber Plates allow up to - 1-7/8 deg. of camber, more can be achieved if coil over springs are used. On Tight courses I like about 1/16 deg. of toe out but on long open courses 0 Toe is better because the car under steers less on the exit of long sweepers and doesn't over steer as easy going in to corners.

On a 12A motor I use a Racing Beat Header Connected to a custom Collector and a 2-1/2" custom exhaust with a 2-1/2" DynoMax Muffler. I use a Holly 500CFM 4 Barrel Carb with a Racing Beat Intake and a Center Force Dual Friction Clutch. I removed the stock fan and air-conditioning and smog stuff and added a 12" electric fan on the radiator with a computer fan on the oil cooler just for Texas

Rx-7 GSL-SE

1985 Rx-7 GSL-SE cashmo@execpc.com
with 160k miles on it for autocrossing, (yes, you get what you pay for). The motor still pulled strong when I got it but then seemed to slow down a bit. I thought one of the cats was plugged but found that it was just one of the gaskets that had rusted and half of it was covering the last cat. I took the opportunity to replace the rest of the system with a 2.5 inch pipe and no name 'turbo' muffler. I've also installed a K&N air filter. The bad news is none of the above gave me any noticeable power advantage. My next auto-x is out in the middle of nowhere so I'm going to try taking the muffler off to see how loud it is and see if the high RPM HP gain is worth the torque loss.

I installed Tokico Illumina adjustable shocks on all 4 corners only to find that I usually leave them at setting number 1, the softest. Even with the 1.125 inch Suspension Techniques front sway bar the car pushes in slow corners and is tail happy in fast sections. I do set the front's on 2 or 3 if there are a lot of slaloms or fast sweepers and for track events. A pretty fast guy at Nationals used 3 in back and 5 in front so your mileage may vary. Speaking of Nat's, it appears that the GSL-SE is definitely not the overdog in the new CS. The top RX7 was past Nat. Champion Ken Hurd down in 7th place.

I've tried BFG R1's and Yokohama 008's and like the BFG's better. The Yoks are easier to control, but slide sooner too. Plus the BFG's have a very stiff sidewall which helps the fronts since we have no camber control.

MX6 4 cyl (2.0)
Andy Hollis ( ahollis@origin.ea.com )
This car is currently running in H-Stock
These cars are great in stock form, so there's not a whole lot to do.
The usual basics apply:

1) Tires. Wheels are 14x6, so you can fit a number of sizes. I ran 205/55-14 BFG R1's and
they worked great. I never tried it, but using the 225/50-14 fronts are a definite
improvement (not available when I was running this car). 31-33 lbs front (cold), 25-27 rear.
More if you are somewhat "aggressive" in style.

2) Shocks. Tokico Illumina 5-way adjustable. Typically set to 2 in front and 5 in back for
concrete and sweeper-type course (Nats). 3 and 5 for concrete with lots of transients
(ProSolo). 2/4 or 2/3 for asphalt, depending on grip and bumpiness of surface.

3) Alignment. Align for max negative camber (.5-.75) and max caster. Make sure to hold
strut in most favorable position while tightening strut bolts. Use significantly more torque
than specified for these bolts to make the alignment hold. Set front toe at 1/4 out and
rear at zero.

4) Wheels. I used lightweight Enkei wheels. Only 11 lbs (stock alloy is 17).

5) Exhaust. Choke point is prior to the cat, so not much help here other than weight. I
used stock, but you can lose a few pounds by a cat-back system or just removing the muffler
(loud).

6) Engine. Set timing at the factory allowed tolerance of +2 degrees over stock setting.
Use NGK BKR5E-11 plugs gapped stock. Mazda NGK wires (make sure these are fresh, same with
rest of ignition parts). Use synthetic fluids (10w30 Mobil I in the heat, 5w30 in cooler, 0W
for max performance at Nats). Redline MTL in the tranny and Redline PS fluid.

7) Brakes. Stock Mazda, but keep fresh. Castrol LMA Dot 4 fluid, bled often, changed
annually.

This car is very easy to drive, responds well to adjustments and has no evil traits. I
believe it will still be quite competitive in E-stock.